GIC The Villa Collection

Sivota past and present and why the Greeks keep it a secret

2012-01-03T08:02:00.000-08:00

Name almost anywhere in Greece and you can link to thatplace a rich history that goes back to the days before Alexander the Great. Thetiny village of Sivota in the north west of mainland Greece is no exception,with stories of conquest and betrayal that stretch back more than2000 years. One of the earliest mentions of Sivota is as the site of a majornaval battle in the Pelopennesian war in 433 BC, when the forces of Kerkyra(Corfu) squared up to the combined might of the Corinthians and theThrespotians.

More recently it was known as Mourtos during the 500 year period of Ottoman rule whichended in 1913 with the Balkan Wars. It was later home to an Albanian populationwhich was expelled in 1944 for its support of the Nazi invaders.

Visit Sivota now and you’ll soon see evidence of the region’spast importance. On a nearby hilltop you can find an ancient acropolis. Closeto this, an abandoned settlement ofaround fifty 18^th-19^th century houses. And out in the bay on Mavro Oros, one of two islands clearlyseen from the shoreline you'll see an Ottoman era lighthouse that was built by the Frenchin 1884.

Today Sivota has a population of barely 3,000. It is hardly geared up to accommodate mass tourism but this is what makes the small resort a favourite with those who visit. Sivota is a popular destination for Greek tourists and is known domestically for the outstanding quality of its beaches; not a bad commendation in a nation with around 15,000 kilometres of coastline.

Tourism remains low key in Sivota, with most visitors content to fall in with the slow pace of life that the local residents enjoy. A stroll to the nearby beaches is a popular activity while boat trips to the tiny islands of Mavro Oros and Agios Nikolaos in the bay are readily available. For those wanting to go a little further afield boats also make the trip north to Paxos and even to Corfu. Buses do trundle up and down the coast but are infrequent and not set up for tourists trying to make day excursions; to do this a car will be a more practical option.

For most tourists renting a cycle offers a fun and easy way to get around the village of Sivota and its immediate surroundings. Whichever way you choose to explore the area in and around Sivota you're likely to be captivated by its understated and authentic charm - you might just decide to keep the secret of this little corner of Greece to yourself!

An Introduction to Paxos, the smallest Ionian Island

2011-12-01T05:04:00.001-08:00

Paxos may be small (it's barely 7 miles long and 3 miles wide) yet it does attract its fair share of attention. Known among a group of devotees as one of the sparkling jewels among the Greek islands, it has attracted a steady stream of visitors since the Greek tourism boom of the 1970s. Reaching Paxos itself is something of an adventure. Too small to have its own airport visitors instead fly into neighbouring Corfu and take a ferry over to the island.

The population of Paxos is a mere 2,500, scattered among the few settlements around the coast (you'd have to try hard to be more than a mile from the coast). Yet even on such a small island there are 30 beaches, most of which are made up of small white pebbles and clear turquoise waters. It's a place to get away from the pace of everyday life and pass the days relaxing and enjoying fine fresh food.

Why Paxos?

The island has gone by the name of Paxos for many centuries, yet in true Greek fashion no-one can agree on where this name originated.

Some credit the Phoenicians, whose word 'paks' translates as slate, a material that is found in plentiful supply on the island.

Others suggest that the original inhabitants of the island were shipped over from the settlement of Paxous on Sicily. They adopted the name in memory of their old home. This suggestion is probably not such a popular one.

The Greek expression 'paksosas thyras' meaning closed doors, might offer an alternative clue as to the origins of the name. If you take a look at the harbour in the main settlement of Gaios, it is indeed a closed harbour and some credit this geographical oddity for the naming of the island.

Others still consider the word as a corruption of the word for flagstone. These were quarried on the island and shipped to the mainland many centuries ago.

Paxos - a rich history

As with all the best arguments there is no right or wrong answer and people will believe whichever version they prefer. But even these different possible origins provide a clue into the rich and varied history of this island. From Phoenicians to Venetians, from the Romans to the British, the island has known many rulers and has served as an important staging post in the wider battles of the Adriatic and Ionian Sea.

The origins of Paxos itself belong to a very colourful legend, with Poseidon himself being credited for breaking a little piece of Corfu with his trident to create a little haven for his sweetheart.

We'll take a look at the history in more detail soon, but whoever has been in charge of Paxos it's hard to believe that they weren't enchanted by the island's beauty and natural charm.

For more information about holidays on Paxos visit our site and take a look at some of superb villas available to enjoy on island.

by Andy Jarosz

Kefalonia - The beautiful South

2011-10-19T01:36:00.000-07:00

I have recently returned from a wonderful familyholiday in South Kefalonia where we spent 7 nights at the Trapezaki Villas,Trapezaki. This was the second time we had stayed at the Villas; ourfirst visit was back in September 2009 when my parents, my wife and I booked 2of the 4 Villas and had a thoroughly enjoyable time. We have all beenyearning to go back ever since and this year we were lucky enough to be able toreturn again with the addition of my Sister’s family of 4 including my 2 youngnieces aged 9 and 13. This was not the first time all of us had been awaytogether; we had all been to Paxos together in 2010 and shared a 4 bedroomvilla but, alas, 3 generations under one roof didn’t turn out to be such a goodidea and we vowed that any future family holidays would be in Hotels! ButI have always preferred self-catering and suggested that we book 3 of theTrapezaki Villas. It turned out to be a very good idea!

We booked early to take advantage of the early bookingdiscounts and spent the summer counting the days left before departure on the27^th August. Departure day arrived and getting there was quickand easy; flights were early in the morning which meant we were all relaxing onour patios by tea-time! My nieces were almost instantly into theirswimming pool and stayed there for most of the holiday!

The Villas were just as lovely as we had rememberedthem. The owners, who run the minimarket adjacent to the Villas, havedone a wonderful job of designing, planting and tending the gardens which weremagnificent. There was an abundance of colourful flowers, lush hedgerows,huge palm trees and a countless variety of flora and fauna including numeroussmall birds and butterflies of all shapes and colours. The gardensseemed to be in full bloom and it felt like spring (although muchhotter). As well as lifting ones spirits and providing beautifulsurroundings the vegetation also created privacy between the villas, and eachunit had plenty of outside space around the pool where you could not beoverlooked.

Trapezaki is a small, quiet hamlet with a hotel, alovely sandy beach, a minimarket, a couple of tavernas, a handful of privateVillas and very little else. It is located in the foot-hills of MountAenos, which is stunning and dominates the landscape. The capitalArgostoli is a 15 minute drive away and the best place to go for serious foodshopping.

My Mother loves to cook for people and created somebeautiful meals in her well appointed Villa kitchen. Ingredients were allfresh from the farmers market and butchers in Argostoli and we shared luncheson the patio and around the pool most afternoons. The minimarket nextdoor was very useful and seemed to have everything and anything you might needon a holiday; from lilos and inflatable pool toys to 12 year matured scotchwhisky, Selotape, sun-cream, fruit, veg, cold meats, pasta etc. His beerfridge was kept at a constant 1 degree Celsius and was always full of perfectlychilled beers! We would buy occasional ingredients there if we ran out ofthings and didn’t want to drive into town.

Evening meals were usually in Lourdas, a five minutedrive away, which boasts an impressive selection of Tavernas. We triedabout 4 or 5 during our stay and they were all of a consistently highquality. The portions were often huge (especially at Lorraine’s abovethe beach) and prices reasonable. We would often retire to one of thepool terraces after dinner for a nightcap; they are beautiful at night, whenthey are lit, and we would talk into the small hours under a black velvet skypeppered with millions of twinkling stars.

I couldn't recommend the Trapezaki Villas more highly,especially for groups and families travelling together. There is just theright amount of seperation between the villas so that they are allprivate, yet only a few steps away from each other. The air-conditioning,which is included in the holiday price was much appreciated on those hot Augustnights, and they owners take grerat care to keep everything in tip-topcondition. They are a charming Greek couple and remembered us from ourprevious holiday and gave us all going away presents.

The week seemed to fly by. I think we willprobably go for 2 week's next time. And I am sure it wont be long beforewe are back at Trapezaki in the beautiful south of Kefalonia!

Mark Willson,

Sunvil Holidays

A week's stay at Villa Marina

2011-09-30T02:44:00.000-07:00

I have justreturned from a wonderful weeks holiday at the Villa Marina in Kefalonia. Thehouse is built in a olive grove, a ten minutes walk from thevillage of Karavomilos which is a sleepy hamlet. It has a bakery, mini marketand a few tavernas. One of the tavernas specialises in fish -the grilled octopus was wonderful - and another was right on the waters edge.The bakery, as well as stocking a huge variety of bread, had a beautifulpatisserie section along with mouth watering ice creams. Needless to say wenever went hungry!

Villa Marina

Thevilla has a bedroom upstairs with a balcony looking out to sea towards theport of Sami which was perfect for evening G&T's and it became ahabit to see if the pretty, light bedecked ferry from Ithaca was ontime. Downstairs there is a well equipped kitchen and lounge with patiodoors opening out on the pretty walled garden.

The garden is filled witholive trees and, much to our fascination, plants thatflowered gorgeous purple blooms every morning and then shed itsflowers each evening. After consulting with the Oracle (my Mum) I wastold they must have been Morning Glorys. It felt like a real oasis,especially when blue tits and chaffinches came down to daintily drink from thepool edge. The only sound you could hear apart from the birds was the odd clangfrom a wandering goat herd - just lovely.

Agia Efimia

Kefaloniaitself is wonderful. A car is included in the package price and so weventured the ten minute to Agia Efimia a couple of times which is apicture postcard harbour village. Fifteen minutes further on from here isMyrtos beach; this beach must be one of the most photographed beaches in theworld and getting to it involves driving down a narrow windy road but it isworth it. Our favourite beach though was Antisamos beach which is only a tenminute drive from the villa just around the bay from Sami. It is a sweep ofpebbles backed by green mountains and the snorkelling here was fantastic. Thesea is crystal clear - you could see the fish from your sunbed - andthe colour of seas depicted in Caribbean holiday brochures.

Weabsolutely loved our time in Kefalonia and cannot wait to return.

Tracey Howard

Sunvil Holidays

A week in North-West Crete

2011-09-12T03:42:00.000-07:00

When I think of the Greek islands I wonder how to capture their magical essence in the written form. It must be the combination of clear blue skies, bright sunlight, the surge of heat, the fragrant smell of olive trees and the wonderful aroma of Greek food that all make the weight lift immediately from my shoulders and stress just seems to dissipate! Those that are familiar with many of the Greek Islands all have their favourites and I have to admit that mine is Paxos. However, I have been to Crete at least three times and it is a stunning island.

Villa Kontis, Crete

The real magic of Greece began for me when I was a teenager with a backpack and I first visited the mainland and the Cyclades. The following year I drove through Europe to Piraeus and took the car ferry to Naxos where I lived for a few months. Since then Greece has become the country I return to time and time again. I now have my own teenage daughters who love it as much as I do and this summer we travelled to north-west Crete for a week with close friends to stay in Villa Kontis. The nearest seaside village is Georgioupolis - just a five minute drive away and there are plenty of shops and tavernas here together with an excellent supermarket called Ariadne (near the police station).

Almirida Beach

We preferred the beach at Almirida, a smaller resort, about a 20 minute drive from the villa on the main highway (exit Kalives). Here we often lazed the days away on the sandy beach playing bat and ball, enjoying the surf and eating lunch at the pretty seaside tavernas. The teenagers chose the taverna with the fit waiter and ordered souvlaki pitta every day!

The island of Crete is large compared to many of the Greek islands but it is very varied and probably has the biggest number of hair pin bends from North to South through the incredible mountain range from Chania to Paleochora. Samaria Gorge is found in this area and claims to be the longest gorge in Europe (16km). Due to the island’s very southerly location, the weather is usually good from April until the end of October.

Villa Kontis, Crete

We arrived at Villa Kontis which is in a very peaceful and secluded setting and were thrilled with the spacious villa and its beautifully kept gardens.   The pool is larger than any I have seen at other properties and it is a delight to sit around and enjoy the sound of the cicadas and the odd grunting goat passing by. The style and ambience in this lovely stone house is relaxed and comfortable with very attractive furnishings. Outside we cooked on the large built-in barbecue, a treat to have this option for dinner when we did not always feel like getting in the car again.

On our first evening we took a five minute stroll to Maze which is a tiny hillside village of a few traditional stone houses and a sleepy square with a small church and one taverna.   We were warmly welcomed by the taverna owner (Kostas) who served us some delicious fresh food including local lamb. Our parting gift from him was a huge bottle of red wine he had made using his own grapes. Also in this part of Crete in many of the tavernas, you would usually expect to be given a nightcap of raki (firewater!).

Lastly, this villa has an excellent visitors book where guests have shared very useful information and ideas.   Worth noting from my insert – if you visit Lake Kournas which is close by and famous for turtles, do not bother going during the daytime as we did not see even one turtle, apparently they come out in the evening!
Jane Naylor,
Sunvil Holidays

Villa Atlantis - what a prize!

2011-06-06T06:53:00.000-07:00

I couldn’t believe it when I received the call telling me I had won a villa holiday in Cephalonia…. Surely there was a catch? But no, GIC The Villa Collection really had given us a full holiday (flights, transfers, villa accommodation) – how marvellous!

And the icing on the cake was that the week we would be away happened to include my 40th birthday – what a present...

So at the crack of dawn in late May my husband and I, together with our two boys aged 9 and 12, set off for Villa Atlantis in Katelios, Cephalonia.

Villa Atlantis is truly special – I challenge anyone to not have a perfect time there. We had drooled over the pictures on the website but the reality was even better. When we arrived we were overawed by the sheer amount of space there was – both inside and outside.

All rooms are tastefully decorated, and the bathrooms (of which there are 4!) are of a very high standard with big, powerful showers and plenty of room.

But it is outside where the magic really begins… Two of the bedrooms have balconies that give wonderful views across to the mountains and down to the sea. Opening the shutters to sunshine and views like that is just the most wonderful way to wake up.

The outside dining area has the same magnificent outlook, and while sitting there you are surrounded by lavender bushes, vibrant bougainvillaea and other lush vegetation. A few steps (or a slope if you prefer) take you to the pool area, with another table and chairs, ample sun loungers and again – that view.

The great thing about Villa Atlantis is that you have total privacy – you are not overlooked at all, but a 10 minute walk brings you right down to the beach front of Katelios. Here there are several local bars and tavernas lining the sandy beach – all very friendly, relaxed and serving delicious Greek cuisine and freshly caught fish. Katelios would suit anyone looking for a relaxing, slow-paced escape. The tavernas are very family-friendly, and you can watch the children play on the beach when they get bored with sitting at the table. I would have felt totally comfortable going alone, or with a female friend, too as everyone I met was so open and welcoming.

This is the Greece I love – simple, friendly, unpretentious. And of course all against a backdrop of mountains and bright blue sea. Heaven. Thank you GIC The Villa Collection, it was truly wonderful and made that rather significant birthday much less painful!

Mrs Gibbs,

GIC The Villa Collection client

Villa or Hotel: which is best?

2011-06-02T01:25:00.000-07:00

For those looking to have a break in the Mediterranean sun the choices are never as simple as they could be. Which destination? Where should we fly to/from? How many nights? What are we going to eat? And perhaps the biggest question of all: where are we going to stay? While it seems sometimes that hotels can be found in almost every village on every island, many people are choosing to shun the large modern complexes. Rather than sharing their summer break with hundreds of others they are seeking their own private home from home for their hard-earned holiday.

So what is the attraction of a villa over a hotel; and for those who haven't tried this option, is it worth considering?

Let's look at hotels first. When I've have stayed in private apartments and villas, the first thing I've noticed is the absence of a team of service staff on arrival, meaning that I have to carry my own bags to the room. It's not a problem for me as I prefer to carry my own bags in any case.

The main advantage of a hotel is the service on offer. You can call down for a sandwich at midnight, you can use the services of the concierge at any time, go to the gym or the sauna, and have a meal or a drink in the bar without having to leave the building.

But that's where the advantages end for me. So what do villas offer that makes them so different from a hotel?

First and foremost I like the privacy: no maids knocking on the door to clean the room before we've even managed to surface for breakfast, no need to remember the Do Not Disturb sign when we get up late, and no-one spying on how I use my fridge.

You invariably get a lot more space for your money than you would in a hotel. It is a villa after all, and you can expect a living room, kitchen an outdoor area along with your bedroom and bathrooms. We rarely use the kitchen area to actually cook but it's good to have the sink, a decent fridge and a good kettle at your disposal. In most places you even get a washing machine which always comes in handy.

It is also a lot more relaxing to spread out in your own living room to read or play cards or watch TV in the evening after dinner, rather than use the bed in a hotel room as a sofa/armchair/snack table (the tables and sofas in a hotel never seem to be in the right place, or particularly designed with comfort in mind).

The bathroom and kitchen are usually fitted as a regular home would be fitted; nothing fancy but instantly usable. This is quite unlike those crazy hotel designs where each shower should come with a user guide, and the number of light switches you have on offer is roughly equal to the number of dollars spent on the room.

Last but not least, full service villas are exactly that: all service is included. No confusions or irritations surrounding who to tip or how much. You're left alone unless you need specific help; and that's ok with me.

by Andy Jarosz

For a selection of quality villas in the Greek Islands take a look at the dedicated Greek Islands Club Villa Collection site.

A beginner's guide to eating Greek food

2011-04-27T01:28:00.000-07:00

As generations of Greeks have made their homes in almost every country on earth, so the traditions of the Greek kitchen have also travelled far and wide. Even those who have never been to Greece will be familiar with many of the most popular dishes on offer.

Yet there is something special about eating Greek food at its freshest. Not famed for fancy sauces and complex flavours, the beauty of Greek cuisine lies in its simplicity and the importance that is placed on using the freshest ingredients of the season.

Here is a selection of the better known Greek dishes that you are likely to encounter on a trip to Greece. If I've missed out your favourite let us know!

Taramosalata - a pink dip consisting of mashed up cod roe, this makes a delicious starter and is usually served with freshly made pitta bread.

Tzatziki - another dip usually served as a starter with pitta bread, tzatziki is made from yoghurt, cucumber and garlic.

Dolmades - vine leaves stuffed with rice and worked into small rolls, then served cold as a starter. Although they appear very simple, dolmades take a lot of preparation (and some skill) to prepare well.

Spanakopites - this delicious triangular filo pastry snack is filled with baked spinach and feta cheese and then baked until brown and crispy

Moussaka - the national dish of Greece, moussaka is well known to most people. A real moussaka however is a world away from the shrivelled up excuse that bears the same name as is found in British supermarkets. It is prepared with sliced aubergine, minced meat, onions, tomatoes and other secret touches according to what the chef was told by his/her mother.

Stifado - this is a rabbit or hare stew with shallots, onions, vinegar, red wine and cinnamon. It is often served with beef as a substitute for rabbit.

Gyro - the perfect Greek street food, this consists of thin slices of barbecued meat seasoned with herbs and spices, and served with a salad on pitta bread. It is topped with a dipping sauce (usually tzatziki).

Kleftiko - meaning "in the style of the Klefts", this is a slow-cooked lamb, served on the bone. It is marinated in garlic and lemon juice. It was originally cooked in a pit oven (don't expect to see that today though!)

Greek Salad - A tomato and cucumber salad seasoned with onion, olive oil, feta cheese and oregano. Easily distinguishable as one of few salads that contains no lettuce or any green leaves.

Baklava - every country in the eastern Mediterranean serves a version of baklava, and each claim that theirs is the best. Who is right? You'll have to consume a lot of sugar to find out! Made up of multiple layers of nutty glazed filo pastry soaked in honey. Very filling.

Loukoumades - similar to doughnuts, these are light honey balls fried to a golden brown and dipped in boiling honey and cinammon.

Ok, who's hungry now?

by Andy Jarosz

What’s new for GIC in 2011?

2010-12-07T03:26:00.000-08:00

A new name:

Greek Islands Club has arranged villa holidays to the Greek islands for 42 years. There has, on occasion, been some confusion about the meaning of “Club”. We gave our company this name because we saw that our holidays were appealing to like-minded people, who in turn were recommending us to their friends and these friends would then recommend us to their friends. We are aware however that some people might think of us as a holiday club and for this reason and because we are planning to offer similar holidays in other parts of the world – we introduce GIC The Villa Collection.

We still offer hideaway villas on the Greek islands for those seeking privacy, comfort and an escape from the crowds so - just a new name!

We saw 2011 as the perfect time to launch a new-look website and brochure.

GIC The Villa Collection brochure>
GIC The Villa Collection website>

Relax in an airport lounge....

2010-08-03T01:58:00.000-07:00

Organising travel plans for over 20,000 people each year, it is inevitable that we are going to have to deal with some delayed flights. From an operator’s point of view, it is good to experience a delay first hand as it can be easy to forget just how much this can impact on a traveller’s journey.

So, on a recent business trip to Lithuania after the initial disappointment at being advised of a three hour delay, I decided to sit back and use the experience as one of those reality check moments on how it feels to be delayed!

We have recently signed a contract with the new ‘No 1 Lounge’ at London Gatwick in the South Terminal. Having included the lounge as part of our Viking Gold flight upgrade service we thought it would be good to offer the lounge as a stand alone product to those customers not travelling with Viking or those who just want a lounge without the added onboard enhancement.

Having never been in the lounge I thought this delay would be an ideal opportunity to check in and see what it has to offer.

As soon as you enter through the large wooden doors, there is an immediate feeling of calm. Although vastly improved over the last few years, the South Terminal at Gatwick is still very busy and so having somewhere to escape to is bliss!

With a panoramic view of the boarding gates and runway I sat on a large comfy sofa and ordered a drink from one of the attentive waiters. Tea, coffee, soft drinks, carefully selected wines, beers and spirits are complimentary, with champagne and tailor-made cocktails available at an additional charge.

After relaxing, taking in the sight of the busy apron below, and catching up on the day’s news from one of the large TV screens I ordered a freshly prepared sandwich from the complimentary food menu.

Depending on the time of day, there is always a selection of food available. Breakfast is available from 4am – 11am and comprises a buffet which includes freshly baked pastries, fruit salad, yoghurt, cereals, toast and fresh juices, as well as a choice of Eggs Benedict, warm bacon roll or crepes with maple syrup.

At other times of the day there is normally a selection of soup of the day, spicy chorizo & avocado salad, salmon fillet with watercress & mango, warmed chicken Caesar pita, Eggs Benedict and cheese & tomato tartlet.

Children are welcome in the lounge when accompanied by an adult, but may be asked to sit in a designated family area.

Complimentary wi-fi and desktop internet access are available or you can pass the time with a game of table football or choose from a selection of other games from the comfort of your chair.

Having used several pre-pay lounges over the last few years, more often than not I have been disappointed. The No 1 lounge was a completely different experience and one that I would highly recommend.

It really is on par with some of the business class lounges available and at £17.50 for adults and £10 per child you only have to have a drink and a snack for it to have paid for itself!

The No1 Lounge is open from 4am - 10pm daily and can be prebooked via our Sunvil reservations team.

Chris Wright
Operations Director, Sunvil

Villa Koritsaki, Magazia, Paxos

2010-06-29T07:59:00.000-07:00

Richard and I have been going to Paxos for 20 years and have stayed in many of the Greek Islands Club villas both in Loggos itself and further afield but this year we found a villa, which for us surpassed all others - Villa Koritsaki near Magazia – it’s so peaceful and in such a wonderful position.

The owners have put a great deal of thought and care into this villa. Being the housewife I found the kitchen to be very well equipped and the best I have cooked in as far as holiday villas in Greece go.

The garden, landscaped on different levels of olive groves (ideal to get away from your other half and read in peace!) is a delight with all the many colourful plants and which includes a wonderful herb garden and barbecue station.

Koritsaki has superb views from the property’s many sitting out areas. You can also see the sea and mainland through the olive trees as you swim in the beautiful pool, which has been designed to appear like a beach.The Greek Islands Club Staff on Paxos, who are, by now our good friends, are extremely helpful and courteous.

I always say holidays are ‘personal’ and for many years we kept quiet about Paxos as it’s such a special island, but it continues to beckon us back for wonderful relaxing holidays, especially to villa’s such as Koritsaki.

Jan Heys & Richard Reeves

Greek Islands Club Clients
June 2010

Travel to Greece

2010-05-26T05:30:00.000-07:00

I have just returned from Corfu and Paxos .

I wasn’t sure what to expect before I left England. The TV and Press were so full of what was going on in Athens that I wondered whether the islands would be different in any way.

I can honestly say that everything was exactly the same .It was almost as though Athens was in a different country. The subject and the problems were hardly ever raised as a topic of conversation and nobody seemed to be unduly worried.

I suppose the reason is that the islands derive their income from tourism and as long as that isn’t affected their livelihood will continue as before. People on the islands who worked for the Government seemed to be in the minority .

I did meet one woman whose husband did actually work for the Government and he was near retirement age. She told me that she was worried that he wouldn’t be able to retire as planned – but that was it.

The sun was still shining, the sea was warming up, and the friendliness and hospitality of the Greek people was still the same. For me there was no change.

Mrs H Baker (Greek Islands Club Client), May 2010

A GREEK ISLANDS CLUB (GIC) PHOTOGRAPHER’S POINT OF VIEW

2010-02-11T09:17:00.000-08:00

BY TONY FLETCHER
January 2010

I am writing this on a cold January day . Snow and more snow has been forecast for the end of the week. It’s just the sort of day that would make me start to think about my next trip to the Greek islands in early Summer! I am a photographer and have been working with Greek Islands Club for the last seven years. It’s been a fascinating and enjoyable experience with lots of amusing incidents. Having said that I am aware that I am only as good as my last photograph and therefore it has a fairly serious side as well!

I have got to know most of the GIC Greek islands pretty well and I now prefer them to a lot of the places we have been to on holiday in Europe. In fact I have been to most of the islands now on holiday apart from my trips as a photographer.
Admittedly I go to Greece usually in June and then September which misses the peak season and therefore perhaps it’s a little quieter.

Life in Greece seems much simpler and this simplicity means that the charm and way of life as it was many years ago has endured. Family life is still paramount and it’s good to see young and old sitting together late at night outside their houses, or in the various cafes and bars. Nobody in the extended family is left out. Children seem to have much more freedom and that’s great to see in this day and age. If you are eating at night at a harbourside taverna you will see children on their own happily fishing or playing near the waters edge. Although the Euro has changed things a bit, in my view the Greek Islands are still a lot cheaper than most of Europe .

Friends are intrigued that I speak so highly of Greece and some have started to think that they too might take a holiday there. When they ask about Greece they seem to have almost exactly the same concerns - Food, Wine, Beaches, Shopping, and even what the Locals are like. These are my views:

Food – It’s quite true that you won’t find the same standard of international cuisine on many of the Greek islands that you would find in a large European City. However, there are always one or two excellent restaurants on each and every island that I have been to and in the case of the larger islands probably up to a dozen restaurants of particular note. You will always find a good selection of small and intimate tavernas. If your villa is anywhere near the sea then your local taverna will be looking out to sea or in a pretty harbour with twinkling lights – and the tables will be virtually in the water! A romantic setting is easily the equal of an extensive, sophisticated menu when in holiday mode. Tavernas in village back streets are just as appealing and are usually full of life and fun.

Off the beaten track there are also some gems. We once stumbled on a taverna on a tiny little beach in a quiet part of Cephalonia. We could smell homemade bread being baked from our position on the beach. We went back in the evening and had the most lovely meal with the freshest fish caught by the owner off the beach that morning. At the end of the meal we were told that if we wanted to come back later in the week we could order now and they would make sure that they had in fresh whatever we wanted to eat.

In most tavernas the food tends to be simple but very fresh. A lot of the tavernas are family run – if the taverna is near the sea, father will go out and catch the fish each day, mother will tend to the vegetables and the sons and daughters will wait on the tables. I can remember once ordering fried zucchini and Grandma being dispatched to go and pick the zucchini there and then from their allotment at the back. Homemade Taramasalata is like nothing you will ever have tasted. Homemade Moussaka (preferably by Grandma) is a new and enticing experience. Fresh fish caught that morning ... I could go on!

Wine – You can buy French, Italian and Spanish etc wine in the supermarkets but it tends to be quite expensive. Greece now has many small wineries with some excellent wines. Very few of these wines are exported so ask the taverna owner for his recommendations and experiment. We have come to really like the local wine (served in half or full kilo carafes) - it’s very easy to drink!

Beaches - Most Greek islands have a mix of pebble and sand beaches. If you don’t particularly like a pebbly beach it can be more than offset by the fact that the sheltered waters are crystal clear and snorkelling is great. The backdrop to most of the beaches is usually very pretty with olive trees, pine trees and wild blossoming shrubs. Also in the Greek islands you are more than likely to be able to find a deserted cove all to yourself.

A unique feature of the Greek islands is that on most of them you can hire a small (15HP or larger) motorboat, with a sun canopy, quite cheaply – about £35 per day as opposed to something over £100 per day in Europe. There is nothing nicer than exploring and discovering inaccessible and deserted beaches, or pulling into a little harbour and tying up next to your table at a quayside taverna for lunch . I can remember one holiday when we didn’t use our hire car at all - it just sat outside the villa for two weeks. We went to beaches, shopped, visited the main town and lunched at waterside tavernas using our hired boat which was moored next to the villa.

Most of the GIC islands have other adjacent islands nearby and this protects the sea which is why normally it will remain pretty calm on that side of the island. Safer for those not used to boating! Shopping – Shopping varies from island to island. Supermarkets cater for both British and Italian tastes. Supermarkets, bakeries, grocers, gift shops etc are plentiful. Bread is baked everyday and is delicious. Chemists and butchers can be limited just to the main towns. Only the larger islands have towns where there is a more varied choice of shops - Argostoli in Cephalonia , Lefkas Town in Lefkas, Corfu Town in Corfu, and Chania and Rethymnon in Western Crete .

Locals - As I have said earlier, the lifestyle of the Greek islanders is comparatively and attractively simple. Most are charming and they always seem to have the time to talk to you and make you welcome. I will always remember on our first visit to Greece (as a GIC client) - we went round at the end of our holiday to say goodbye and thank some of the people in the shops or restaurants whom we had got to know. To my great surprise each one gave us a small gift to remember them and Greece by! It was quite unexpected and such a nice thought. Also that same year the Greek owner of our villa surprised us by putting on a suit at six o’clock in the morning to shake our hand and wave us goodbye on our Ferry!
If you are worried about speaking or reading Greek you will find almost everyone speaks English .

As far as the photography is concerned it’s been enjoyable but also challenging and not quite as easy as one might think. The combination of needing the right weather, being at a villa when the sun position is just right, and getting access to avilla at a convenient time to suit GIC clients can sometimes be difficult to co- ordinateand there are never enough daylight hours! I must say that we have been very fortunate in that every GIC client we have met has always been extremely helpful and sometimes even quite intrigued by what’s going on! We always try to be as quick as we can remembering that actually we are disturbing a holiday. Even when all the above slots into place some villas have more to offer than two or three brochure photos can convey. Villas such as Olive Grove ,Winegrower’s House and Perivoli on Cephalonia are a case in point. They are all owned by the same Greek owner and have a totally unique rustic charm which is difficult to show in just a few photos.

I have mentioned earlier that we have now been to most of the Greek islands featured by Greek Islands Club. Below are some quick comments on each of them but you must bear in mind that we generally see them in June and September:

Paxos - Paxos is one of our favourite islands. It really is quite amazing that you can fly into Corfu which is a fairly busy island and after just an hour or two’s boat ride you can be transported as if by magic to this quiet and intimate little island. Paxos is tiny - just seven miles by three miles with three small towns and a few villages - but I can honestly say that we have never felt crowded there. Not on the beaches, in the countryside, or in the tavernas. In Spring and up to early Summer Paxos is covered with the most beautiful flowers along the roadsides, in the olive groves and all the way down to the sea.
Birdlife in all the Greek islands is pretty abundant but for some reason I have seen more birds for the first time in Paxos than anywhere else . I never thought I would ever see a Golden Oriole but I did in Paxos.

The Paxiots are amongst the most friendly of islanders – I don’t know what it is but if you return to the island following a previous holiday they have this amazing ability to greet you as though they are more excited to see you again than anyone else. There are lovely little tavernas in Gaios and Lakka – in little backstreets or right on the water. A favourite evening perhaps would be to go to Loggos harbour – have an aperitif at one of the waterfront bars as the sun dips behind the hills, then stroll round the quay to a taverna table beside a bobbing fishing boat and then maybe a nightcap on the other side of the port!

A lovely day out is to hire a small boat, moor at the quayside in Lakka or Gaios for lunch and then motor south to AntiPaxos where there are lovely sandy beaches and deserted little coves.
AntiPaxos - Antipaxos is quieter than Paxos and even more beautiful. We have never stayed on the island but I can imagine it would be amazing. Provisions aren’t a problem but you need to be organised with the deliveries of your food etc as there are no shops and provisions come by boat from Paxos. Walking on the island is a pleasure – stunning views, a natural seasonal wilderness of colour, fascinating wildlife and a lovely stillness.
The island is dotted with little coves most of which are empty out of peak season and which you can easily walk down to.

Cephalonia - Cephalonia is a much larger island and one of many contrasts. We have never been to the Lixouri Peninsular but we have travelled around the South and North of the island many times.

The South of the island is busier than the North and has a few holiday “resorts” close to Argostoli. However in the areas of Spartia, Trapezaki, Lourdas and towards Katelios, there is a rich countryside of olives and pines and the beaches are pretty and not overcrowded. We stayed once in Argostoli and liked it for its variety of shops and the buzz when eating around the Square at night. The North of the island is centred around Fiscardo. The drive from Argostoli to Fiscardo is stunning albeit a tiny bit hair-raising in a couple of parts as you wind around the mountainside with drops to the sea . You pass above the famous Myrtos Beach and then Assos both of which provide spectacular views from the roadside viewing points. A swim at Myrtos Beach is well worthwhile, the beach is long with white sand and a deep blue and turquoise sea.

Fiscardo used to be a small fishing port but now attracts the more discerning visitor to its colourful waterfront. The harbour is exceptionally pretty with lovely Venetian buildings – all ochre and pastel colours. At night it is buzzing with a host of quayside restaurants and shops. Hiring a boat from Fiscardo gives you many possibilities - you can explore the nearby beaches and coves which are inaccessible to cars, explore fish farms down the coast, sometimes follow dolphins, or (with a larger outboard) travel across to Ithaca.

The surrounding area around Fiscardo from Evreti to Matsoukata and Manganos is also very pretty. Lots of pine clad hillsides sweeping down to the sea with panoramic views to Ithaca and Lefkas. There are lots of village or little beach tavernas which are cheaper than Fiscardo – we always like Ta Pefka in Antipata and there is a tiny beachside taverna near Halkeri .
I would still class the area from Sami to Agia Efemia as the north of the island but it has a completely different character to Fiscardo. It is much quieter. The drive over the mountains from the South is pretty and you pass the beautiful Gerasimo church and through the Roudi valley where there are local vineyards. Robola is probably the most well known Cephalonian wine and very acceptable.

Sami is a fairly busy fishing port with lots of quayside restaurants. Next to it is AntiSamos beach which together with Myrtos Beach is where Captain Corelli was filmed. The road to Agia Efemia runs along the sea and from Karavomilos onwards has lots of tiny little beaches with excellent swimming - many are deserted and look towards the backdrop of Ithaca and the mountains behind Agia Efemia . You can park your car beside the road with just a few steps down to the beach. Agia Efemia is a little quieter than Sami and also has many waterfront and backstreet tavernas.

Lefkas - Lefkas is a very deceptive island and the more I go there the more I like it. It is connected to the Greek Mainland and the first impression as you drive over the causeway and along the coast through Nidri is that it is just another busy holiday resort – but nothing could be further from the truth.

Lefkas has some of the most beautiful beaches in the Ionian. On the west coast are the picturebook beaches of Porto Katsiki, Egremini, Gialos, Kalamitsi, Milos and Kathisma - all have the most beautiful long stretches of white sand and deep blue and turquoise sea. You can drive right down to Kathisma and park virtually on the beach. There is plenty of space because the parking stretches for nearly a mile. The other beaches are marginally more difficult to get to but definitely worth going to . When we went on holiday and stayed in the Sivota area, there were plenty of beaches nearby but we found it worth the trouble to drive to the other end of the island (only about half an hour) just to go to these quite exceptional beaches.

Sometimes we would drive along the coast and sometimes over the mountain through Vafkeri (where there is a lovely taverna called The Katoghi run by an English couple), on through Karia and other mountain villages and then down to the sea on the other side. A fascinating journey where you will come across real local life.

Lefkas has the Geni peninsular which forms a huge lake and yachting harbour. All around the lake on the Geni side are little tavernas right on the water’s edge where you can gaze across the water to the mountains above Nidri. Lovely for lunch and even better for dinner – so pretty. Most of the yachtsmen arrive for dinner in their dinghies which can sometimes be quite amusing!

There are many others parts to Lefkas from the yachting centre at Sivota, to windsurfing at Vassiliki or Agios Ioannis, and onto the bustling and vibrant Lefkas Town which has some excellent shops, cafes, tavernas and bars.

On our last holiday to Lefkas we hired a small motorboat from Nidri. We swam in a bay at Skorpios (the Onassis island), lunched at a taverna on the island of Meganissi and spent the rest of the day exploring the small little coves of Meganissi and the east coast of Lefkas.

Meganissi - To my mind Meganissi bears some resemblance to Paxos. It’s a small island and lies a few miles off the coast of Lefkas. From the busy bustling town of Nidri you catch a ferry and within twenty minutes you are transported (in a similar way as Paxos) to a world of peace and quiet. Vathy is a pretty port where yachts and fishing boats mingle together. There are lots of tavernas around the quayside. Spartoheri is a town in the centre of the island where you can eat and savour more of a local Greek atmosphere.

Meganissi is lovely for walking and swimming - the island is dotted with bays, little coves and beautiful beaches. You can drive to most of them or take a boat. Boating around Meganissi is a joy – apart from the beaches there are lots of little surrounding islands to explore as well as the huge caves on the west coast. The caves are so large that you can enter them in your boat and have a swim inside if you are so inclined! Life is peaceful and unhurried on Meganissi. It’s also cheaper here than a lot of other islands.

Ithaca - The reputed home of Homer is not as well known as some of the other Ionian islands. It’s quiet, peaceful and pretty.

The North of the island centres on the two beautiful little fishing ports of Frikes and Kioni. Here everyone is very friendly and you get to know the locals very quickly and eating in any of the waterfront tavernas in the evening is just lovely.
I remember asking once for some fresh eggs at the supermarket in Kioni to be told that they were all fresh but if I came back tomorrow they would bring me some from Grandma’s chickens picked that morning – and I did and they were delicious!
The tavernas of Frikes have some unusual local dishes which are extremely tasty and one night they even did a takeaway for us. The two ports are just fifteen minutes apart and the road between them winds around the coast with many tempting little beaches just a few feet below your car.

Afales bay is wild and beautiful and if the sea is calm there are some stunning deserted little beaches to explore by boat. Exoghi is high up above Afales Bay – it has a mountainous woodland behind for walking, a beautiful church, and stunning views across Ithaca and to the bay below.
The South of the island revolves around Vathy which is a much larger and slightly more sophisticated fishing and shipping port. It’s busy, bustling, vibrant and full of local life. A hundred and one tavernas all along the quayside and in the backstreets and much more in the way of shops than Frikes or Kioni. It’s surrounded by lovely countryside, stunning views and beautiful beaches – Kaminia Beach is lovely and deserted but difficult to drive to.

Crete - When we looked down from the plane as we circled the west end of Crete to land at Chania, the island looked so large I wasn’t sure I was going to like it . I didn’t think it would have the intimate character of the Greek islands I had come to know so far. But how wrong I was. Whilst we were there we travelled from the north east tip of the island along the coast westwards and up to Rethymnon.

The large seaside resorts are much like any other in Europe but the little fishing ports and inland villages have just the same charm as any of the other Greek Islands.
The added bonus of the island is that there are things that you won’t find on the other GIC Greek islands. Crete is a walker’s paradise with dramatic gorges which are quite beautiful particularly when the flowers are in season. In the right months you will also see lots of beautiful butterflies everywhere. The White Mountains are stunning and the archaeological sites, ruins and churches are plentiful and have a huge history.

The towns of Chania and Rethymnon have an abundance of shops, cafes, restaurants and tavernas. Chania has a huge choice of clothes shops. Both towns have large bustling harbours with quayside restaurants and beautiful architecture from the surrounding buildings. The backstreets off the harbours are crammed with tavernas and local shops. You will find such a choice of where to eat that virtually every taste is catered for.
In the backstreets of Rethymnon we found a restaurant called Avli which had the best food we have tasted so far on the Greek Islands.

The beaches on Crete are excellent and most that we saw were sandy. Falassarna beach on the north-west coast has patches of pink in the sand and is quite beautiful. We would love to have gone to Gramvousa nearby which has the most extraordinary turquoise sea but it is better accessed by boat and there just wasn’t time. Moving eastwards there are any number of nice beaches – Marathi beach on the Akrotiri peninsular has the stunning backdrop of the White Mountains and Georgioupoli beach runs for miles and miles almost up to Rethymnon.
Alonissos - The journey to Alonissos is quite long generally with a wait in Skiathos before you catch the ferry via Skopelos – but you are rewarded when you get there. Tourism hasn’t caught up with Alonissos yet and that means charming, welcoming locals and peace and serenity virtually everywhere.

Alonissos - is on the edge of a National Marine Park which in particular is the home for the rare Monk Seal. We have seen them in the evening fishing for their supper in the north of Alonissos on the east coast and we have also seen dolphins all around the island. This confirms that the marine life around Alonissos is particularly plentiful.

The north of the island probably centres around Steni Vala which is a little inlet for fishing boats but which doubles up as a overnight stop for lots of yachts. There are two supermarkets and quite a few cafes and tavernas – all on the quayside and it’s charming. You will get to know the residents of Steni Vala very quickly as they are very friendly. A few miles up the coast is the fishing port of Kalamakia which is mainly for fishing boats but takes in a few yachts as well. There are four or five tavernas on the quayside which are renowned for fresh fish – our favourite is the one at the far end towards Steni Vala which is owned by the owner of one of the GIC villas. He catches the fish every morning, mother and grandma do the cooking and their charming daughters look after the tables .

There are accessible beaches and little coves all along the east coast from Patitiri up to and past Kalamakia. The last one, Agios Dimitris, is a large beach and probably the nicest, and from then on you need a hired boat to visit the little coves up to the northern tip of the island.
The south of the island centres around Patitiri which is the main town and a busy fishing port – it has enough room for many yachts and also the ferry from Skiathos. All around the port on the quayside are tavernas and there are a few shops, supermarkets, butcher, bakers etc at the back of the harbour .

Set above Patitiri is Alonissos Old Town which is the very pretty, previous capital of the island. The streets are narrow and full of quaint houses painted all sorts of colours with lots of flowers, quite a few shops, and many tavernas some with lovely views across the island to the sea. At night the tavernas are busy and there is an exciting atmosphere around the streets.
The west coast is a little wilder and the beaches more difficult to get to but they are lovely nonetheless if you make the effort to get there.

Alonissos is a paradise for walkers, has abundant birdlife, lovely little beaches and is a place to just switch off from the world.

ANTIPAXOS: The real Greek Island escape for you?

2009-10-26T02:41:00.000-07:00

More and more people are looking for an escape from the stress of home life: traffic, traffic lights, telephones, computers, aircraft, neighbours and sometimes just people! If this is you - the tiny island of AntiPaxos might offer the perfect escape – each of our three island villas has privacy, simplicity, tranquillity and beautiful natural surroundings of vines and pines.

If you are looking for that perfect escape however, do weigh up the drawbacks of an isolated island such as AntiPaxos: there are only four tavernas (just above the two main sandy beaches) and they stay open until 5.30 pm and only one might stay open later – this means that dining is more often at home with a barbecue or well-equipped kitchen; there are no island shops so shopping has to be done on Paxos by catching one of the regular inter-island speedboats or by asking our Paxos office to deliver provisions(a delivery charge is made locally); there is no village waterfront so no evening people-gazing; in July and August the two sandy beaches become fairly crowded from 10.30 am to 5 pm but before and after these hours the beaches are deserted; there are no coach excursions; there are no streetlights so a torch is needed – in fact there are no streets, just donkey paths & narrow lanes; a lack of street lighting means the stars are stunningly bright; there are no internet cafes and no traffic lights.

Frank and Maggie Tarrant have been regular guests at Violetta House over the last ten years. They have written the following:

We first went to AntiPaxos for two weeks in 1998. At the time of booking we had an extensive discussion with the Managing Director of GIC who tried to persuade us into only staying a week, saying that it was not for everyone. We explained that we had been to Paxos in the past and stayed a month in one of the more basic and remote villas that GIC offered in those days, and he agreed to let us proceed!

AntiPaxos had just appeared in the GIC brochure and we booked into a villa owned by Dimitri who ran a chicken and goat farm. We enjoyed his hospitality, eggs, goats’ cheese, grapes and wine and fell in love with the island. We returned to Paxos for a week in Villa Yakovos that has views of AntiPaxos and watched the sun set turning the white cliffs of AntiPaxos into all shades of pink. It was then we determined to return.

Dimitri’s villa disappeared from GIC’s brochure the following year, so we chose Violetta. This became our summer retreat for the next ten years. The first seven of them in August then the next three in June / July. We still see Dimitri working at his nets in the port, or herding his goats or feeding the chickens on his farm.

Consequently, we have some first hand knowledge and through the reading of the guest book each year a considerable record of AntiPaxos has emerged over the last ten years from late May through to late September.

As David Watrous said in 1998 AntiPaxos is not for everyone.

Food:
We had always backed up our shopping list by taking either pasta, rice, couscous or dried pulses. In August 2002 we were greatly relieved to have done so.

We sat on the veranda after dinner and watched a wonderful “firework”display of thunder and lightening in the mountains on the mainland. However, it gradually dawned that the “fireworks” were coming our way. The weather set in for about four days: it was cold, wet and miserable. The tavernas closed, the owners returned to Paxos and the water taxis disappeared. We felt that we were virtually alone, especially when the telephone packed up. Mobiles were not provided in those days.

This was in high summer but the Guest Book indicates that in spring and autumn similar changes in the weather can be experienced. This year in 2009 it rained on and off for all of the week before our arrival at the end of June.

We also read of a family who in early June 2004 ran out of food during bad weather and survived on six eggs that the maid had given them. She no longer lives on the island so don’t rely on a repeat!

Therefore, there are some measures that can be taken to insure against “starvation”!

Pack, or order in advance (the GIC Paxos office will ensure provisions will be in your house on arrival) back up staple foods e.g. pasta, rice, pulses etc.
Make sure your first order is comprehensive with plenty of water, tomatoes, onions, beer and wine; it may be your last for a number of days.
It is worth always keeping a six pack of water in reserve.
Make friends with your local taverna owner. They will happily act as a shop. Thus saving the need to have wine, beer and water delivered and providing basics such as tomatoes, onions, eggs, bread etc. if you are stuck.
With prior arrangement they may also stay open in the evening, and again with some planning provide take away meals from their menu such as stuffed tomatoes and moussaka.

Boats:
Do not assume that they are running. In the high season, if the weather is fine, they run regularly from about 10.45am to about 5pm with a gap over lunchtime. They exist for the day trippers to visit AntiPaxos .If there are no tourists, there are no boats.

If the weather is poor or changes, they stop. We were once trapped in Gaios. We travelled over to shop in pleasant weather but by the time we were ready to return the heavens had opened and the water taxis closed down. We were forced into an extended lunch and a highly inflated private return journey late in the afternoon. We still see the “old crook” who took us back and whilst we thought he could have retired on his takings that day he is still plying his boat there and back.

Do not be fooled by the traditional blue caique that arrives in Antipaxos at about 10.30 each morning. It does not go back to Paxos until about 4pm.

The compensation is: no boat - no trippers. Therefore, the beaches are all yours.

Beaches, coves and swimming:
Voutumi and Vrika beaches are magnificent early in the morning before 10.45am and after the day trippers have left. We once read the sea at Voutomi described as “pellucid” and now quote it to each other every year.
Many of the coves and other bays (see Bleasdale’s Walking Guide) are wonderful for swimming and indeed are more interesting for snorkelling. It is perfectly possible for you to be totally alone in some of these bays. However, the pebbles and rocks encourage the growth of sea urchins. The female urchins, with a drop of olive oil and some bread, add an attractive supplement to your diet !)) Beach shoes are therefore useful.

Walking:
The Bleasdale Walking Guide is a must. But the early editions are not totally accurate for AntiPaxos. The latest version can be purchased in advance or is available from the GIC Office in Gaios.

In the early season some paths are not fully accessible and are over grown. The Guest Book is full of stories of people who have failed to find less obvious tracks. Be prepared to push your way through gaps and take a stick to clear the paths of spider’s webs.

With the exception of the track to the lighthouse and the concreted roads from Bella Vista Taverna to the port and up hill from the port, most paths consist of rough broken rock.
When you get to the centre of the island just beyond the church it is easy to imagine life in the past for the islanders who lived there throughout the year. There is of course a small community who still do !

It is advisable to take comfortable walking shoes or good trainers.

Nature:
The seasonal flaura and fauna are just great. Swifts sitting on the telephone lines watch the parent birds and learn how to skim the swimming pools for water. Young sea gulls that don’t get it quite right and land in the pools for a swim and look a little puzzled . There are wonderful butterflies; a range of wild herbs along the paths; dolphins early in the season; hares dodging in and out of the undergrowth; and occasionally non-poisonous snakes can be seen.

Akis of Bella Vista has recently reintroduced two female donkeys and is threatening to ferry a “boy” over. On your travels around the island you are likely to see figs, apricots, plums, quinces pomegranates, loquats and grapes.

Workmen:
If you meet any workmen always check on what is happening. It may be your first and last warning of an imminent cut in electricity - you may well know more than the Reps, who may not have been informed. A telephone call to the Gaios office will enable them to warn other villas.

It is good practice to check for a torch, candles and matches on arrival in your villa.

Why then did we return for so many years?

In 2002 we said in the Guest Book - “Thank you yet again for another delightful two weeks…”
2003 - “Do we need to tell you how lovely our week has been?”
2004 - “Another fabulous two weeks…….”
2005 - “It remains a very special place.”
2006 - “Thank you……….for providing such a lovely place to be.”
2007 (The year of the earth quake) - “The island is as lovely as ever.”

Other words that come with regularity in the Guest Books are:

“Brilliant location”,“Wonderful” ,”Paradise”, ”mosquitoes”, ”tranquil”, “cats”, ”heaven”, ”waterproofs”, ”bliss”, “wasps”, ”ants”, “beautiful swimming”

We have friends whom we first met on Paxos. In 2002 they had a week on Antipaxos in Violetta villa. Since then they have not returned to stay on Antipaxos. But each year they make a day visit. They arrive in Voutoumi, walk up to The Bella Vista Taverna where they have a juice and then peer over the wall of the villa. They then take the walk through the centre of the island and drop down to Vrika Beach for a swim and lunch in George’s Taverna. A walk over the top of the headland takes them back to Voutoumi and a boat back to the high life/”bright lights” of Paxos.

Antipaxos is not for everyone, but it is hard to totally let it go.

So: Who is Antipaxos for?

Those who are entirely comfortable in each others company.
Those who like tranquillity…..the only disturbance comes from the maid.
Anyone who wants to chill out ( We met a couple, one of whom had a very stressful job that resulted in him being a poor sleeper i.e. three to four hours a night. He slept for twelve hours on his first night in Phoenica!
Anyone who loves pellucid, crystal, clear, clean sea water.
Anyone who loves unspoilt countryside and enjoys walking in it.

But : Who is it not for ?

Anyone who wants entertainment on tap.
Folk who want fine dining.
Anyone who is not flexible, adaptable and resourceful.
People who want luxurious accommodation.
Anyone who has mobility problems.

Frank & Maggie Tarrant 2009.

Island hopping and tortoise spotting in the Sporades

2009-10-08T08:39:00.000-07:00

The Sporades, an archipelago off the east coast of mainland Greece, caught my attention this year. A ‘so bad it’s good’ film has put the spotlight on Skopelos, a tiny pinprick in the Aegean with pine-clad vertiginous peaks that’s about as green as the Greek islands get. Luckily the terrain has deterred the Greeks from building an airport here, and after a white knuckle landing at Skiathos (the runway, flanked by the sea at both ends, is the shortest I’ve ever seen!) and a speedy hop by ‘flying cat’, we’re in peaceful Skopelos.

Travelling in late September means that the temperatures are in the mid twenties, ideal for walking and snorkelling. Our villa – booked through my client Greek Islands Club - is perfect: nestled on its own on a hill, it faces west and overlooks the amphitheatrically-built Skopelos town and harbour – the views and sunsets mesmerising. It’s not long before we settle into island life buying barbouni (red mullet) straight off the boats in the morning for dinner, before tackling the island’s hilly trails. My keen birdwatcher partner is in heaven when he spots bee eaters, Bonelli’s eagles, Eleonora’s falcons and wind chats. We hit the picturesque beaches in the afternoon - a favourite was Limonari, just far enough from the town that it wasn’t too busy with some good snorkelling and a nice taverna serving hearty Greek dishes.

Before long, we’re off to Alonissos which offers an altogether wilder and more remote experience, with its crystal clear waters, heather-clad hills and beautiful rugged bays with very few people. It’s just as lush here as Skopelos and the walks are impressive – overwhelming wafts of thyme and heather; fig, mulberry, pine and almond trees aplenty and an excellent guide in Chris Browne who knows the island inside out. This time, we’re lucky enough to stay right on the beach at the charming Fisherman’s Cottage with its wonderful views of Peristera, an uninhabited island well worth exploring by boat if you like secluded beaches all to yourself. The nearby idyllic fishing villages of Steni Vala and Kalamakia satisfied our yearnings for fresh fish.

Alonissos is home to Greece’s only National Marine Park primarily set up to protect Europe’s largest colony of one of the most endangered mammals in the world, the Mediterranean Monk Seal. Day trips into the park by boat are possible, although don’t expect to see any seals! Dolphins are more common though, and after pausing at the renowned ‘blue cave’, the boat stops at a charming monastery with a solitary working monk. One of our more unusual spots here – the monk, his cassock covered in dust, was working a cement mixer when we arrived! On our last day we discover an ancient resident – a great big wild tortoise plucked out of the undergrowth for inspection by my partner. An Alonissos veteran, it would seem that she sets the pace on this sleepy, beguiling island.

Sarah Belcher
Travel PR

Praise for Paxos

2009-06-09T04:43:00.000-07:00

What a sensational holiday.

From the moment we arrived in Paxos (nice and early as we’d had a 4am check in at Gatwick) Greek Islands Club welcomed us and made us feel totally at home (just a much hotter and far more luxurious one!) Valentina House was a dream; huge pool, fantastic outdoor kitchen - a constant stream of grilled fish, chicken, tomato salads and tzatziki, all drizzled with lemons from the tree in the garden. Not forgetting the eccentric but very useful collection of sunhats – my elder daughter is modelling a pink one she found in her bedroom.

Worried that we might get bored of the 12 metre pool, ping pong table, hammock and 500 channel satellite TV, Annie (our discreet and very friendly rep) directed us to the only sandy beach on Paxos which was ten minutes down the road and had canoes for the kids to hire, paddle in circles and then capsize. When we got bored of that (how spoiled were we!?) Annie suggested we hop into a glass-bottomed speedboat and go ten minutes across the open sea to Anti-Paxos (an even more idyllic, almost uninhabited and even smaller island) where you lie on a white sandy beach, gaze through your snorkel at the fishes and urchins and then eat them fresh from the local taverna’s barbecue. Perfect.

And finally, when my youngest child cut her head on some stone steps at 6:15 on the morning we were due to leave, Annie and Ettie (another of the unflappable reps) woke up the island doctor, sat chatting to us while she had 5 stitches, produced a pink Kitty rucksack and bracelet to cheer her up (how at 7:30 am!?!) and then got us on a hydrofoil, into a taxi and to the front of a 100 yd passport queue all so we didn’t miss our flight back to London. Phew. Mind you, I kinda wish they hadn’t been so flipping efficient and then we’d still be there…

I cannot praise and thank the team highly enough and it’s probably appropriate that I didn’t get any of their individual names as I wouldn’t want to single anyone out - they were all fantastic (both on Paxos and in Corfu) and looked after us flawlessly throughout.

by Harry Oulton, Greek Islands Club client